Next I took on the
ridgeline to the right. The trees were in front of the background so I had to
be careful to indicate that through richer color and a wider value range. Cobalt Blue was still used for the trees,
but I used Yellow Ochre to neutralize it and of course less white so the color
comes across more intense. I added some Cadmium Yellow Light to the edges of
some of the trees to give it that rim light feeling.
The cut field in
front I used Yellow Ochre, Cadmium Yellow Dark and white. As the grass crests on the hill I added
more white to it to give it some of the sky color and to show distance.
With that out of the
way I could move on to the green grasses growing by the side of the water. This means I have to start thinking of
how I want the edge of the water to look, another words I need to define the
edges and the reflections in the water.
There is a dark shadow line as the water meets up to the plants, so I
used Viridian Green and darkened it down with Transparent Red Oxide or Raw
Sienna. As the water moves away from the shadow area I will cut the Viridian
with Cadmium Orange to give it a warm reflective quality.
The water I am going
to do in two stages, since half of it is a greenish orange color of the
reflected rock cliffs in the background and the rest a reflection of the blue
sky mixed with white from the churning of the water from the current. So I have separated out the major areas
and just blocked in the predominant color. If I were to go into it now with the
blue on top of the warm green color I would end up polluting much of my blue.
So if I just wait a day the underlying color with dry up a bit and keep the
paint that I lay on top looking more vibrant.
Richard Boyer
Richard Boyer
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